8/14/2005

紹興水鄉

戀戀女兒紅 紹興水鄉風情繚繞醉人

Melol Viru Garn Iell, Luithol i Gened e Nen-obel Shaoxing





去古城紹興旅遊的理由似乎很多:光著腳丫去踩一趟青石板鋪就的古仄古韻的小橋,悠悠地坐上烏篷船走一趟魯迅先生筆下的周莊;要不,穿梭於迷離的小巷,尋訪名人故居,沾一身的竹布青衫味,在街口立成另一種文化象徵……

Laew i geirien al lend na vinas iaur Shaoxing: an awarthad rein na dail chelthennin erin ianu dithen garel nostad iaur vrûn i carnen na hern gelin, an ngared lend en 'Zhou Zhuang' i Lu Xun teithant ah gûr lain na lunt mor-dobas, egor an neledhed raith nibin roen, hiriel nôr iaur pen vae-hinnen, garel ûl hammad laer, a tytel na tharbad ethraid tylel a thaith e-haew ú-hinnen......



煙雨裏的紹興,濛濛的,露出蒼穹下灰灰的矮房的輪廓線條,那是古城泱泱的博大的歷史文化底蘊所洇染而成的,那灰灰的色調裏透著一絲濃重、嚴肅、不苟言笑的莊嚴,如一位飽讀詩書的學者站在懸崖上看天,你無法打破這其中的氛圍。

Hithui a mithren Shaoxing vi hîth a ross, thiol daeg cant in edaib tyfn nu rond menel, i bîl i 'obennas ar i chaew dhae a veleg e-minas iaur óner. I bîl vith thêl 'welu en anwar arn dûg, dhûr, ar arphened, sui pen istui tylel or naith tiriel venel. Ú-belich 'leniad i 'welw vi san.






  紹興水鄉以她那古樸典雅的、恬淡清幽的特色吸引了大批遊人。而三烏:烏篷船、烏氊帽、烏乾菜,則奠定了風景這邊獨好的旅遊氛圍。

Shaoxing i nen-obel luitha lennyn laew nan gened iaur, arth, dhínen, a buig dín. 'San Wu' (I Nêl Pîl): lunt mor-dobas, carab mor-chelf, a thâr barch mor penia 'welw lend sui peth "cened vaer sí erui".

  輕舟八尺,低篷三扇,占斷萍洲煙雨……”八百年前作淺唱淺吟的陸游,把烏篷船駛入了旅人找尋世紀末情結的視野。

"Lunt lim tolodh tail, neled rynd dyfn, pannol chîth a ross Pingzhou......" Lu You, i linnant na lam dofn a dithen ne tholodh host io, tunc i lunt mor-dobas na gened 'i veleth e meth host idhrinn' i lennyn anírn hired.

  水鄉風情是朵季節花,在不經意中悄然綻開。乘著烏篷船,想著波光瀲灩的水波,八字橋上的青石板、古纖道……飄忽的思緒裏鑽出的竟是《高山流水》。船進 後橋,我睜大眼,想捕捉些什麼,諸如一片紹興鄉語,青山雨霧中古城特有的綽約風姿之類的,可除了覓得一舟的卻不知心中所系,情之所鐘了。

Lotheg lû i gened e nen-'obel, edlothiol na-dhínen. Tegin gair mor-dobas, nauthol 'wing hílol, hern gelin erin ianu Bazi, ven fim iaur...... i nad i síla e nauth lodol "Ered Chaill a Nîn Lodol" i tevin. Nelídhiel ad-ianu i gair, pannon chind, anírol gaded aenad, sui pith es sad-lammas Shaoxing, sui i thîr erchaill i minas iaur vi ered gelin a ross a hîth gâr vinai, dan hirin erui beth 'Nai' (a), ar ú-chenion i nauth i gwedhannen na 'uren, i tungen na veleth nîn.




  斜躺在烏篷船上,望天的眼眸、水的波光,耳畔若能覓得幾聲鳥鳴,那便是再好不過的事了。偶爾的擱槳,在船的輕悠悠的顫動中,扯回了微漾的思緒。誰在彈箏,撥動著旅人的心弦,一汪心緒甘願受著槳影的羈絆,不棄舟,亦不登岸了。

Adlannol caedon erin gair mor-dobas, tiriel chend menel a 'wing-galad nîn. Naw ammaer ae pelin hired lammad aewen nef lhaw. riel lorn, ad-rithon nauth 'lingol vi glingad dithen cair. Man gannada rithol gûr lennon? Gwedhed 'uren na 'wâth cair-chorthon i innas nín. Ú-'wannathon uin gair, ar ú-ammadathon na raw.


紹興,是個多夢的地方,戴著烏氊帽則是另一番情致。

  紹興是個人文薈萃的江南古鎮,也由此,人文景觀頗多。諸如魯迅故居,那有著曾經是一代文豪童年玩耍時的百草園和少年求學時的三味書屋;那背依著錦繡的會稽山,有著大禹碑亭、禹廟、禹像,鐫著江淮河漢思明德聯句的大禹陵;那翠竹清流,風景清幽,為東晉書法家王羲之會友處的蘭亭;南宋名詩人陸游和唐婉的愛情故事的見證,那有著《釵頭鳳》詞的沈園……紹興的風景如同那水巷縱橫中的堤埠石一樣,沉穩地立在那兒,吸引著遊人前往徜徉、回望。每一處的喜悅,都化作一縷陽光線兒,小心褶進氊帽的帽沿裏邊。頭頂氊帽,鄉野風味頗濃, 只差有陌上黃花相伴。

Shaoxing sad ely evyr, a gared garab mor-chelf mathad vinai.

An gobel iaur vi ardhon e gelon Yangtze Charadren Shaoxing garel chaew gwaith dûg, laew gobel-gened gwaith, sui bâr iaur Lu Xun garel Hant Selaib ias heron parvas e hoth idhrinn teiliant ir e naun hên a Barv-gar Nel-gaved ias e sint ir e naun neth; sui Orod Guiji adlannol i nôr vain garel gerig dummen beriol 'ond Dayu, Iaun Dayu, argon Dayu, a Chaudh Dayu ah pethath "Renel vaethad Sirion Valen, Sirion Yangtze, Sirion Huai, a Sirion Han"; sui Lan Ting, ias Wang Xizhi i cheron bain-deithad ned Andrann Jin Rhuven govant i vellyn dín garel 'laid laeg, gelith buig, a cened dhínen; sui têw en narn meleth e glíron hinnen ne Thur Song, Lu You, a Tang Wan, garel Hant Nos Shen vi glîr "Tachol Naraew"...... Sui gynd nef hebais vi ethraid, i gened Shaoxing tŷl ennas na-thala, gadel chind e lennyn i anírar atholed egor achened. Gell ilsad prestannen na anorlain gleiniannen vi rîw e helv-garab. Na vathad dûg sui ed edrain minas, a na vathad athug ae gared lend ah lyth valen nef râd.


沈園


  走進沈園,就走進了那首一詠三歎、淒婉艾怨的宋詞裏。沈園是懷舊的,沈園也是傷感的。我和妻子小心翼翼地在走在青石板小徑上,生怕一不小心,就驚擾那 對戀人短暫的相聚。就會觸及歷史上那陣陣的隱痛——陸游初娶表妹唐琬,無奈陸母不喜歡這個媳婦,就無情地拆散了這對恩愛的夫妻。

Sant Nos Shen

Nelídhiel Hant Nos Shen, neledhin i 'lîr Song naergon a dhem. I Hant Nos Shen pathrannen na rîn. I Hant Nos Shen naer. I chervess ah im padar na-ind erin râd harn an ú-brestad 'ovaded e melethryn ar an ú-bladad i naeg naegrol ne gobennas -- Lu You bestant iell en nîth en naneth în, Tang Wan, dan i naneth dín ú-velant chervess en iôn în sen a ristant pem-meleth i dâd melethryn.



  一個春日,陸游與唐琬在沈園邂逅。唐琬備好了酒宴款待舊日的戀人。面對這無邊的春色,面對容顏憔悴的戀人,面對那雙含淚的眼睛,陸遊傷感萬分。提筆在沈園的牆上寫下了這有名的《釵頭鳳》。唐琬也隨即賦和了一首。不久,唐琬便抑鬱而死。

Ne thirith-aur aur, Lu You govant Dang Wan vi i Hant Nos Shen. Dang Wan parthant vereth 'nin melethron iaur dín. Nivrol gened aronoded ethuil, nivrol velethril garel thîr tharn, nivrol dâd hind nínui, Lu You garant veleg nírnaeth. E teithant "Tachol Naraew" hinnen or ram i Hant Nos Shen, a Tang Wan, aphadol han, go-'lirn 'lîr. Ab, Tang Wan firn vi maur.


  紅酥手,黃滕酒,滿城春色宮牆柳。那細雨中搖曳的翠竹,莫不是那對戀人纏綿相依的身影?那葉片上淌落的雨水,莫不是紅悒絞綃的眼淚。這山,該是他 們傾心相訴的誓言吧,這水,多像是戀人那綿綿不盡的相思。我和妻子輕輕地撫摸著這亭台樓榭,感受著歷史脈搏輕輕的跳動。那一詠三歎的詩句,顆顆如珠玉,扣 擊心版,發出陣陣的幽傷。

"Mâb vae garan, miru shaoxing valen, teithor laeg a laeb pathrar 'obel." Go-gaint i melethryn i ngelais roedh i rithar vi ross thlîn? Ross dannol od las i nîr i gwathant thirval garn a limmint vab-chammad. Boe i orod nad 'west i ephennir nan nguir dín, a boe i nen nad rîn aronoded i melethryn. Hervess ah im pladar i edebig ar i varad, mathol gabed fim en dringadrem gobennas. I phith e glîr naergon, sui mîr a sarn laeg, dringol bân gûr, firir noe rem.


  驀然,從那汪清清的水池裏,遊出了一對鴛鴦。在細雨裏,纏綿相依。你梳理我的羽毛,我整理你的裙裾。多像那對依依不捨的戀人。

Breged tâd Cîn-gaudych ed-lodar uin loeg buig, lodol na-alchae di-ross. Puidach i bess nín, a parthon i chammad lín, sui i dâd melethryn i ú-anírner gwannad.


從百草園到三味書屋


  不必說碧綠的菜畦,光滑的石井欄,高大的皂莢樹,紫紅的桑葚;也不必說鳴蟬在樹葉裏長吟,肥胖的黃蜂伏在菜花上,輕捷的叫天子[雲雀]忽然從草叢間直竄上雲霄裏去了。單是周圍的短短的泥牆根一帶,就有無限趣味,油吟在這裏低唱,蟋蟀們在這裏彈琴……”

Os Sant Selaib na Barv-gar Nel-gaved

"Ú-moe peded 'alas-hant galen, cail bath en eithel 'ondren, gelaidh lhítha doer, egor piog 'aer; ú-moe peded 'lired and en-ûn 'liriel vi laiss, malen-nios dûg dolthol or 'alas, egor lirulin linnol, brethol ribed na faun. Hirithach 'ell aronoded nef thund edh rammas gefn i estent, ias uin dithin glirir ar uin bigin gannadar......"


  這就是魯迅先生筆下的百草園。可以想像,眼前這百草園給年少的魯迅先生帶來了多麽大的樂趣。菜畦依然是碧綠的,在細雨裏更是顯得青翠欲滴。石井欄也依 然是光滑的,只是由於歲月的侵蝕已經有些班駁了。時光倥傯,皂莢樹也多了那麽多的年輪。這麽多年了,它依然佇立在那裏,冷眼望著人世間的風風雨雨,感受著 世事的滄桑。幾多感慨,幾多歎息。不知它是否記得當年那位翩翩少年,那位在綠蔭裏嬉戲的頑童。它也許想不到正是當年那位淘氣的頑童,後來用一支筆,喚醒了 一個沉睡的民族。

I hant hen i Hant Selaib i Lu Xun teithant. Pelim istad sa i Hant Selaib i cenim tunc 'ell dhaer Lu Xun neth. Laeg i halab-hant sui e naun, ar e allaeg di-ross thlain. Path i gail en eithel 'ondren, dan talt i bel erin thîr dín an gwannad andrann. Rîb lû, a gelaid lhítha galler ringorn allaew. Ir gwannar în, e tŷl sí na-danc sui e agor, tiriel na-chim brestennith vi i amar, mathol brestad i bâd vi i amar, na-naer, ethuiol. E rên i venn neth ar vaed nedin în iaur, i chêr um i teiliant nu vorchant gelaidh laeg? Sennui e ú-hint, i chên um nedin în iaur echuiant 'waith lostol na degil.




  從百草園的月亮門往外,依次是先生及其家人的住處。木質的床榻、絲綢的被服、精細的瓷器、甚至擺放在牆角的農具,都散發著江南一個較富裕的小康之家的 生活氣息。最讓我感到驚喜的是我居然見到了閏土送給迅哥的貝殼和幾支漂亮的羽毛,不禁讓我記起《故鄉》裏少年閏土的形象:



I mâr e-herdir ar i mâr en-nothrim dín vi haered ed i Annon Ithil e Hant Selaib. I naid bain, haust dawaren, hamp vaeglanui, maenais gifn vae-echennin, ar cyry adh redhed i peniennin na vennas ram, firir ‘welu cuil nost i garant viriain ellaew vi ardhon e gelon Yangtze Charadren. I naid i ú-ab-narnen tírad edregol i cheilf ar i phis bain i Run Tu aun an "Xun Ge", nin rennol gant garel edh Ren Tu neth vi narn "Bardor":





  深藍的天空中掛著一輪金黃的圓月,下面是海邊的沙地,都種著一望無際的碧綠的西瓜。其間有十一、二歲少年,項帶銀圈,手捏一柄鋼叉,向一匹猹刺去,那猹卻將身一扭,反從他的胯下逃走了。




"Ithil gorn ar valthen glingannen vi menel luin, ar iaif nind ar laeg galar vi i dalath lithui nef aear nuin menel. Benn neth i cuia tr
î vinig egor ýneg în, garel rind gelevon na iaeth, hebel vaeth-vaenas sui lhamthanc na vâb, nasta lavan throvan thiol sui hû. Dan i lavan ritha thraw în ar drega trî dâd tail dîn."





  是啊,少年閏土寄託了先生少年時多少彩色的夢幻啊。他不但開啟了一個嶄新的、充滿浪漫主義的世界,也使先生對新生活充滿了渴望與憧憬。所以當先生回到 故鄉,面對著蒼黃的天底下遠近橫著的幾個蕭索的村莊,面對著被生活磨難得畏縮、木訥、卑微的中年閏土時,心情是何等的淒涼。

A, elei pilui ernediaid nedin andrann ín e herdir dorthar vi i narn "Run Tu Neth"! E edrant 'ardh ‘wain ar 'ardh bathrannen na nauth mîl, ar aun dired ar ab-narad herdir 'nin guil ‘wain dín. Sa cerienanna sa gûr ereb e herdir ir e atholl nan mbardor, tírol ebil naer ar erib rennin nu venel valu, tírol Run Tu Ber-iphant, ú-gaun, dhínen, ar athollen, i mathannen na guil darlanc.




  如今,世事滄桑,一切都已物是人非。只有那幾隻貝殼和幾根彩色的羽毛依然在角落裏,撥動著歷史傷痛的琴弦。出了先生的故居,向東走不遠就是三味書屋。 這是間不大的私塾,舊時的桌椅還在,只是漆已脫落,斑斑駁駁。依稀可以看到先生刻下的那個銘志的字,它象一團跳躍的火焰,在歷史的深處熠熠地閃爍著 光芒。



I amar prestannen si, ar i naid bain ar in gwaith bain prestannen. I cheilf ar i phiss bilui erui hodar na vennas, gannol lain en gannel e haru o gobennas. E mbâr iaur e herdir, na-amrûn al-chaeron cuia Parv-gar Nel-gaved. Sa barv-gar haid niben. I phain a theithad ioer ar i chaim ioer cuiar, dan i phîl ín píliel. Pôl thiad i dîw ‘Zhao’ (Minuial) i herdir teithant a thangadad i innas ín, sui lach gabel, síla galad vi sad dofn gobennas.



鹹亨酒店還在,我們趕到的時候,已是正午。裏邊高朋滿座,推杯換盞。只是不見孔乙己,就是那個站著喝酒而穿長衫的唯一的人。我掏出幾個鋼蹦也學著孔已己的 樣子,一枚一枚地擺在櫃檯上。老闆笑著為我拿出了幾個小菜、一碟茴香豆。只由於世事變遷,茴香豆早已沒了當年的味道。不但非常鹹,而且還特別硬。估計孔乙 己活到現在也難以下嚥。味道更比不上《社戲》裏和小夥伴們偷吃的羅漢豆了。



Cuia Car Randír Xian Hen. Sa tirith-adeluial ir rathanner ennas. Rim, i pathrar i gar randír, sogar ar egleriar, dan ú-belim hired Gong Yi Ji, i venn erui, habel champ and, i sogant viru ir tylel. Tenin genaith sui cared Kong Yi Ji, ar penion vin canath ab vin canath or phân a theithad. Geredir i gar randír, na lalaith, tôg vainn dithin ar eridh garel ûl selaib enni. Dan i amar prestannen, ar in eridh ewerthiel ûl iaur în. Gerir ûl dhaer sarneg e-gaear, ar sai atharn. Nauthon sa Kong Yi Ji u-bôl maded han ae e cuia na hi. Ú-moe peded sa i ûl en eridh laind ammaer na-laew i 'im' ar i vellyn dín mennir pen-istassen vi “She-hsi".






紹興的女兒和女兒紅




Iell Shaoxing ar Miru Garn Iell Shaoxing




  撐著油紙傘,獨自彷徨在悠長,悠長又寂寥的雨巷,我希望逢著一個丁香一樣地結著愁怨的姑娘……

Hebel ross-amath, sa thia sa renion erui vi othrad eliol and, and, ar ereb. Aníron govaded 'wenn sui Ding Xiang i garant ereth…



江南的青山綠水,不僅養育了許多的才子,也養育了鐘靈毓秀的女兒。水鄉的柔風細雨,不僅造就了紹興女兒一個如花似玉的容顏,也造就了她們如水如歌的情 感。她們纖細多情、她們婉約敏感、她們明眸皓齒、她們衣袂飄飛。一如這漫山遍野的茶樹,青蔥翠鬱。也像這潔白、淡雅的梔子花,芳馨醉人。 




Ered laeg ar n
în galen e gelon Yangtze Charadren Shaoxing annar guil i cherdir vaen laew ar anna guil in iellath vaen. Gwaew voe ar ross daen annar thîr vain sui loth ar be vîr ‘nin iellath Shaoxing, ar annar ‘uir sui nen ar be 'lîr. Gerir 'uir daen ovrol noeth evyr. Gerir ind voe ar idhrin. Gerir chind chim ar gerch 'lain. Gerir chaimp hiriol ar lodol. Sai sui gelaidh súthlas i pathrol i orod bân ar i eriador bân, na galen dofn. Sai sui lyth Garden, uilys ar na-idor, lind ar luithol.


   在梅子細雨的時節,連綿數日的小雨,緊一陣、密一陣,把天上地下都淋得濕漉漉的。林蔭道邊的花牆濕漉漉的,小巷裏的青石板路也濕漉漉。這織一片相思,織一片戀情的細雨呀,把江南女兒的心也淋得濕漉漉的。



Erin lui ir ail ross drîw uin Ethuil, in eliad i nuithar him nedin oer limmidar i venel ar i geven. Loen i ram loth nef ven nu vorchant gelaidh, ar loen i 'ondrath i carnen na hern gelin vi rath dithen. I ross drîw i câr nath idh rîn ar i melith limmida 'uir in iellath en ardhon e gelon Yangtze Charadren!



  走進小巷深處的一家小酒店。店雖不大,但處處體現主人的精細,古香古色的桌椅,簡單、雅致的小擺設,牆上掛著具有江南風格的紈扇。扇面是一幅淡雅的水 墨畫。幾個小菜擺上後,老闆娘款款而來。端來了一瓶紹興的佳釀——“女兒紅。開啟瓶子後,一股馥鬱的米酒的清香撲面而來。



Bedin na gar randír dithen vi iâ e-gondrath. I gar u dhaer, dan idhyr e-herdir tanar ilhad, uin heny garel nostad iaur, i naid dithin an aglar e-gar, nan maenas a chared 'waew garel nostad en ardhon e gelon Yangtse Charadren glingannen or ram. Erin maenas a chared ‘waew teithad Cîn vain ar ar-phrestol. Ab beniad aes laew or phân, i cherdis tôl ar tôg i viru vain Shaoxing – "Miru Garn Iell". Ab edrannen i ylf, noston nostad vain dofn e-miru eredh thâr tolel na ven.



  我們笑著問起了女兒紅名字的來由。老闆娘告訴我們,在紹興這裏,誰家生了女兒,都要存起一瓶當地釀造的甘醇的美酒。等到女兒出嫁的那一天才開啟。 是啊,女兒紅,這埋藏了十八年的女兒紅,凝聚了多少的親情、多少的相思、多少的淚水呀。也許是因為把那麽多的情感釀在這酒中,才使得它馥鬱、濃釅 吧。



Glédhiel, mabedim gelu en eneth "Miru Garn Iell". Herdis pêd ammen, boe an ilphen i edonna iell hebed viru velui ar úbrestannen i carnen ennas ar edrad han ir i aur i iell herva. Pathrar, pathrar i melith arnediad, idh rîn arnediad, ar i nîn arnediad vi "Miru Garn Iell", i "Viru Garn Iell" i dolen nu gêf nedin pae-a-tolodh în! Sennui i viru hen melui, tofn, ar úbrestannen ‘nim melith arnediad penniel han.




文章來源:ELOVEE 文章編輯:admin

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